cheap auto paint
Seems like the roller jobs work well for guys without compressors, and who only require black/white or solid colors.
I have a compressor, and the e30 needs some rust and body work. I want to repaint it, but I want it to look pretty darn good too.
What are the basics for a driveway spray job?
And also, I have heard that some paints (with isocyanates) require extreme care and protective gear, while other paints do not. Is there a paint that is safer for hobby use that will still give good results?
Here’s the best picture I have of the paint on the e30.
It looks like most of it is in the rockers and lower fender. If so, I’d consider spot painting. I’ve produced respectable results with a HF touchup gun in the driveway – an automotive paint store mixed a small amount of matching paint. I’ve even rattle-canned the clear on occasion.
I knew a hack body man who used to say ‘below your knee, no one will see .
The rust is all really low, and that’s a really good point.
The hood has some clear coat issues as does the roof. The passenger side has about a 6 x 6 area that has completely lifted and water is actually getting trapped between two layers of paint. Never seen anything like it before to be honest.
Wherever you spray, you’ll need some way of dealing with the overspray. Overspray from spraying outside will wind up on the pavement, on the house, on nearby cars, possibly on the neighbors rosebush, etc. The effect on the neighbors may be more imagined than real, but it’s something to consider.
Setting up a temporary paint booth is possible. Check local laws.
Water based automotive paints are available. Try Eastwood.
X2 on just painting below the rub rail.
Speak to your body shop supplier about rattle can options. The one around here will load spray cans with catalized paint and you head home to spray the stuff that afternoon.
It is not cheat at just under $40/can but cheaper than getting a gun and a compressor and all theother sutff. And you are using real automotive paint that should be close to the original color.
I often paint the rockers on my cars with 3M Rubberized undercoationg; it leaves a nice satin black finish, and is much more chip resistant than paint. and if you do a quick ‘touch-up’ every year or two, it will always look new. The bodywork underneath only needs to be marginal at best as well.
On the Focus I also did the lower part of the rear bumper using a crease as the ‘masking line’.
Turn your garage into a spray booth. I use plastic sheeting from lowes stapled to the ceiling, then screen door material covering the garage door opening and two fans for exhaust. Also make sure the floor is clean.
If you need to kill as much over spray as possible you can shut the garage to the top of the fans, then hang wet towels in front of them to catch the overspray. I prefer having the door open to let in more light and using the screen material to keep bugs etc out, but if you’re in a neighborhood that may not be an option for you.
When I painted my 944 turbo I put it on jack stands to help me get the lower portion of the car.
As far as cheap paint for a BC/CC job. I’ve used PPG shopline, but really didn’t like it much, so would suggest House of Kolor. It isn’t the cheapest, but EXCELLENT paint for the money. As for clear I order from a place in Georgia called SPI. Decent prices and very good clear. I use the universal clear.
This place has good prices on HOK: http://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=44
SPI’s website: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
Isocyanates. yep nasty nasty stuff. I buy the dual filter painting masks at the local autobody store that specifically mentions protection against isocyanates and I use new filters with every paint job. I also tend to wear a headsock, painters jumpsuit, and gloves. Also, when I have to mix more paint I mix outside of the booth/room, so I’m not sitting in there with the chemicals as much.
Also, for BC/CC jobs you really don’t want to go too cheap on the paint and clear. These days I’m either using tractor paint for a quick, single stage, (make this POS look better) type job or I’m using glasurit or HOK base with SPI clear for a pro level paint job. BC/CC is a lot more work, so if I’m going to invest the time I try not to cheap out on materials too much. Good luck!
Edit: Another thing to think about. If the car is in pretty good shape minus the places with clearcoat issues you can always reclear just those areas. The downside is the paint will look fresh there and older everywhere else. I did this on my suburban because the clear on the hood and roof was in bad shape. I sanded the dead clear off and sprayed fresh clear and those areas looked much better, but really too good compared to the rest of the truck. I’ve thought about trying a low gloss clear for areas like that in the future, to try and match the old clear better, but have not had a chance yet.
Good place to buy paint it you’re going to paint the whole car.